We’ve been looking forward to El Salvador for a long time. It’s the final stop on our two-month Central American adventure, and we think we may have saved the best for last. Not to diminish Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, or Honduras, or Guatemala…but El Salvador has captured our hearts. And the pupusas have definitely captured our hearts, too. 😉
A Country in the Midst of Transformation
Ten years ago, El Salvador had the grim distinction of being one of the most dangerous countries in the world, with the highest homicide rate globally in 2015. Today, it has experienced one of the most dramatic turnarounds in public safety in recent history. The government now calls it the safest country in the Western Hemisphere, reporting a homicide rate of just 1.3 per 100,000 people in 2025 (lower than the “best place to raise a family” Johnson County, Kansas!). That’s an extraordinary change!
Much of this transformation is associate with President Nayib Bukele and his aggressive war on gangs. Beginning in 2022, his administration implemented a controversial “State of Exception,” suspending certain constitutional protections and allowing mass arrests of suspected gang members and people accused of associating with them. The strategy has dramatically reduced gang violence, but it has also come at a significant cost to civil liberties, with human rights organizations documenting arbitrary arrests, abuses in detention, and a lack of due process.
It’s a complicated story, and one worth understanding beyond the headlines. If you’re interested in how El Salvador got here, there are several excellent videos worth watching:
How El Salvador Became Safer Than The US – A comprehensive look at the country’s history, from the coffee oligarchy and civil war to the rise of MS-13 and the current crackdown.
El Salvador’s Mega Prisons: Crime Crackdown or Extreme Injustice? – BBC World Service explores the trade-offs between public safety and civil liberties.
How Bukele’s Gang Crackdown Has Reshaped Communities – An on-the-ground look at how the crackdown has changed neighborhoods and communities.
The Gang That Killed 87 People in One Weekend – The backstory of MS-13, including its origins in Los Angeles, the deportation policies that helped spread it, and its eventual grip on El Salvador.
Whatever your perspective on Bukele’s approach, there’s no denying that something significant has changed. We are so excited to be visiting at this moment in the country’s transformation. When people feel safe enough to go to school, run businesses, travel freely, and earn a living without the constant threat of gang violence, the possibilities for a country’s future change dramatically.
We sensed what felt like a collective sigh of relief, mixed with optimism about what’s ahead. The Salvadorans we’ve met have been incredibly kind, friendly, and welcoming. There’s a real sense of pride in their country and excitement about having visitors discover it. Even the border control agents were smiling! (Trust us, that doesn’t happen everywhere.)
A Little Country With a Lot of Variety
One of the things we love most about El Salvador is just how much variety is packed into such a small country. You can experience completely different landscapes within a couple of hours.
In the morning, we can be hiking up an almost 8,000-foot active volcano, peering into a crater lake with the most incredible turquoise, sulfuric water. By afternoon, we’re soaking up the sun on a pristine Pacific beach and participating in a baby sea turtle release, or having a cocktail on the shores of a swimmable crater lake. Talk about a change of scenery!
Head another couple of hours into the mountains and you’ll find the cool, coffee-growing highlands along the famous Ruta de las Flores. This scenic route winds through charming little towns filled with colorful murals, indigenous art, handicrafts, and plenty of opportunities to stop and explore.
We particularly enjoyed the town of Ataco, where we visited Geko’s Coffee. Rather than simply ordering off a menu, we got to choose our locally grown coffee beans and even select the brewing method. A little coffee education with our afternoon caffeine fix. We’ll take it!
Juayúa: Our Kind of Mountain Town
Of all the places we visited in the highlands, we especially loved staying in Juayúa. It checked just about every box for us: cooler mountain weather, walkable streets, a lively town center, good food, amazing volcano views, and plenty of local character.
It also has an interesting claim to fame: the main church, Santa Lucía, houses a distinctive Black Christ figure that draws visitors and pilgrims. But apparently, Jesus has expanded his business interests beyond the church. We spotted several pharmacies around town bearing his name and imagery. Just in case miracles don’t work, I guess there’s always Plan B. 😂
Santa Ana and Lake Coatepeque
In the heart of the country’s volcanic region lies the colonial city of Santa Ana and nearby Lake Coatepeque, a beautiful crater lake popular for relaxing, swimming, and water sports. The lake is a favorite weekend getaway, with restaurants and waterfront spots where visitors can enjoy the scenery.
Santa Ana itself, however, wasn’t our favorite place to hang out. Despite being the country’s second-largest city, it felt surprisingly closed off, dark, and eerily quiet when we were there. Maybe we caught it on an off day, but it just didn’t have the energy we were expecting.
San Salvador: A Different Kind of Capital
And finally, we’ve made it to the capital, San Salvador. Once heavily controlled by violent gangs, the city is now giving us a very different impression.
We’re marveling at the amount of new construction, modern buildings, development, and energy. There’s a sense of a city looking forward, and it’s fascinating to see it firsthand after learning so much about the country’s recent history.
We also managed to get swept up in the Halloween festivities happening all around us. What started as an evening out turned into staying out WAY too late, happily people-watching and enjoying all the elaborate costumes and celebrations. Apparently, we still know how to party!
After two months of exploring Central America, El Salvador has been a wonderful final chapter. Between the landscapes, volcanoes, beaches, coffee, charming mountain towns, incredible food, and genuinely welcoming people, this little country has given us so much to love.
And did we mention the pupusas?
We might just have to come back. ❤️
