From the medieval walls of Dubrovnik—once the powerful Republic of Ragusa and the real-life King’s Landing—to desperately searching for Tex-Mex and melting in the city’s legendary summer heat, our Croatian adventure got off to a memorable start. Next stop: a week aboard the MV Memories, sailing the breathtaking Adriatic coast with friends to celebrate a milestone birthday.

One more day closer to meeting up with our Kansas City friends in Croatia THIS WEEK! Over the past month we’ve been making our way toward Croatia almost entirely by bus 🚌, and today we crossed from Albania into country No. 60—Montenegro!

Before booking, we read the reviews for Old Town Travel—the only bus company operating this route—and let’s just say… expectations were low. 😅 The reviews warned us about unwritten luggage fees, major delays, overbooked buses, drivers chain smoking in the bus, passengers being left behind at pitstops, border chaos, and general travel mayhem.

We couldn’t help but wonder… would our experience live up to the reviews? 😂

Theth, tucked away in Albania’s Accursed Mountains, feels like a quieter version of Yosemite with its soaring peaks, waterfalls, and turquoise rivers. Unlike its famous American counterpart, Theth still offers peaceful trails and breathtaking viewpoints without the crowds. We spent three unforgettable days chasing alpenglow, hiking to waterfalls, enjoying fresh trout, watched the animals go about their day, and stargazing under dark skies.

Before venturing into the Albanian Alps, we spent a few days exploring Shkodër—a charming city of castles, cafés, and bicycles. From panoramic views at Rozafa Castle to a scenic ride along the shores of Lake Shkodër, it was the perfect introduction to northern Albania before continuing on to the mountain village of Theth.

Kosovo surprised us in every way. In our 59th country, we explored the historic city of Prizren, where medieval churches, Ottoman mosques, ancient fortresses, and the birthplace of Albanian nationalism reveal the country’s rich and complex past. Join us as we uncover the history, culture, and resilient spirit of Europe’s youngest nation through one of the Balkans’ most captivating cities.

Our day in Tirana took us from riding the city’s easy and inexpensive bus system to exploring Bunk’Art 1, a massive Cold War nuclear bunker turned museum where we unexpectedly discovered the remarkable story of 30 American nurses, medics, pilots, and crew rescued by Albanians during World War II. We then escaped the summer heat with a scenic cable car ride to the top of Mount Dajti for breathtaking views and cooler mountain air. It was the perfect day of history, adventure, and delicious Albanian cuisine—all while experiencing Tirana from both below and above ground.

Tirana’s skyline was one of the biggest surprises of our visit. Though we’re not usually drawn to architecture, the city’s bold, futuristic buildings—many inspired by Albanian history, culture, and identity—made us stop, look up, and appreciate how dramatically this capital has transformed itself in just a few decades.

Our self-guided walking tour of Tirana took us through centuries of Albanian history, from Ottoman-era landmarks and Skanderbeg Square to communist relics like the House of Leaves, BUNK’ART, and Enver Hoxha’s former residence. Along the way, we explored how Albania has transformed from one of the world’s most isolated and repressive communist states into a vibrant, modern capital filled with energy, construction, and optimism. Walking the streets and standing inside places where so much history unfolded left me inspired by how far this country has come and hopeful for its future.

What started as a quick Google search turned into a self-assigned term paper on Albania, a country we knew almost nothing about before arriving. Along the way, we discovered a fascinating history shaped by ancient roots, foreign occupations, decades of communist isolation, and a remarkable modern transformation—one that helps explain everything from Albania's strong pro-American sentiment to its reputation as the former "North Korea of Europe." Armed with a little context, we're finding Tirana to be one of Europe's most surprising and engaging capitals: a vibrant city full of energy, striking architecture, and plenty of quirks, including reversed head nods and a complete absence of McDonald's.

Having already completed the full Greece sightseeing circuit in 2021—when the Acropolis was blissfully uncrowded during the COVID travel slowdown—this visit to Athens was all about slowing down and experiencing local life in the Koukaki neighborhood. Highlights included wandering through neighborhood markets and cafés, hiking Philopappos Hill for spectacular views of the Acropolis and Aegean Sea, cheering on Team USA during a late-night World Cup match at an Aussie bar, and enjoying a memorable al fresco dinner with younger cousins who happened to be backpacking through Europe. As we head next to Tirana, Albania, a few travel lessons stood out: airport lounge access through Priority Pass is often far more valuable internationally, Athens Airport's Fast Track service was worth every penny, and Aegean Airlines delivered the smoothest fully automated online check-in experience we've encountered so far.

We spent our final days of the Mae Hong Son Loop exploring Pai, where the town’s lingering hippie-trail atmosphere blends with a thriving backpacker adventure scene. Highlights included the giant white Buddha and panoramic views at Wat Phra That Mae Yen, the dramatic sandstone ridges of Pai Canyon, and a refreshing stop at Mok Fa Waterfall on the drive back to Chiang Mai. After more than 600 kilometers of winding mountain roads, caves, temples, viewpoints, and remote villages, we completed one of Thailand’s most memorable road trips.

Day 4 of the Mae Hong Son Loop traded winding roads for deeper exploration, as we settled into a stunning honeymoon suite at a luxury homestay in Tham Lod and enjoyed an unforgettable evening of authentic Karen and Shan hill tribe hospitality. The highlight of the day was an adventurous journey through Nam Lod Cave, where lantern-lit passages, bamboo raft rides, ancient coffins, bats, birds, and slippery trails combined into one of northern Thailand’s most memorable experiences.

Day 3 of the Mae Hong Son Loop took us from the bamboo prayer bridge of Su Tong Pae to Ban Rak Thai, a Chinese-founded village whose fascinating history was more appealing to us than its highly curated tourist attractions—though the locally grown tea was exceptional. After a slow mountain drive behind endless cabbage trucks and through dramatic post-rain scenery, we arrived in Tham Lot and were unexpectedly upgraded to a luxurious honeymoon suite at a hill tribe homestay. Surrounded by mountain views, warm hospitality, and the sounds of frogs and cicadas, we quickly decided this might be our favorite stop of the entire trip.

Day 2 of the Mae Hong Son Loop took us from Mae Sariang to Khun Yuam, where we visited our friend Gai at the local school where he and his wife are teachers, and learned the surprising wartime history behind the Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall, revealing a little-known chapter of cooperation between Japanese soldiers and Thai communities during World War II. After driving part of the 1864 hairpin turns on the loop, we ended the day in the sleepy mountain town of Mae Hong Son, enjoying panoramic views from the hilltop temple and the quiet beauty of the lush green rainy season with hardly another tourist in sight.

Our first day on the Mae Hong Son Loop took us from Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang, where we navigated Thailand’s left-side roads for the first time, enjoyed mountain-view boat noodles, stunning green mountains peeking from behind clouds, abandoned a muddy waterfall mission, and arrived just ahead of a massive rainstorm. The day ended with Karen-style chicken and pumpkin soup, drinks in barber chairs at Ching Ching, and a peaceful stroll along the chocolate-brown Yuam River—a reminder that the best travel days are often the simplest ones.

After five months of fast-paced nomadic travel, a month in Chiang Mai gave us the chance to slow down and settle into the rhythms of everyday life rather than chase tourist attractions. What began as guilt over not doing enough gradually became an opportunity to finally explore the meaning of being retired, let go of old expectations, and find value in ordinary days. Through simple routines, decluttering, and quiet reflection, I started asking a deeper question: can I learn to simply be, instead of always feeling the need to do?

In one unforgettable week in Chiang Mai, we experienced two very different celebrations: the vibrant energy of Pride 2026 and the peaceful reflection of Visakha Bucha Day (Buddha Day). One filled the streets with rainbow flags, music, and calls for equality, while the other brought thousands together in candlelit prayer and devotion at the Buddhist temple, Wat Phra Singh. Though expressed in different ways, both celebrations reflected the same values of community, compassion, dignity, and respect.

From 1996 to today, we’ve experienced Bangkok evolve from a hippie trail hideout where you hoped for "magic" to a high-speed metropolis at my smartphone fingertips. While Khao San Road has traded its laid-back soul for neon clubs and "same same" has turned into vegan cafes and legal weed, the city’s gritty, alluring energy hasn't skipped a beat. Whether we’re hauling a pack in the rain or escaping to a hidden blues bar, Bangkok still feels like home—just with a little more spending power and wisdom.

After following a local recommendation, we traveled from Ubud to Amed, visiting historic sites like the Tirta Gangga water palace and the Lempuyang Temple along the scenic four-hour drive. During the journey, we explored the history of Luwak coffee and Indonesian Batik before settling into the Solaluna Homestay for a relaxing week of snorkeling and coastal views in Amed—now our favorite place in Bali.

While Ubud may have traded its quiet bohemian charm for heavy traffic and influencer culture, it still remains a great destination for those willing to venture off the main streets to find hidden local gems. It functions as an ideal base camp for affordable luxury, offering high-end experiences like jungle-view hotels and massages at remarkably low price points. Ultimately, despite the modern crowds, the combination of cultural beauty and genuine local kindness makes it a worthy stop before escaping to quieter spots like Amed.