Uvita: We Came for the Whales, Stayed for the Whale Tail
We came to Uvita in search of whales and tails.
There were no whales…that we could see.
But we did get to walk across a giant whale-tail-shaped sandbar at low tide, enjoy a beautiful boat ride along Costa Rica’s lush Pacific coast, eat our way through some excellent local food, and—most miraculously—witness an actual sunset.
During rainy season. On our last evening.
Sometimes you just have to take the wins where you can get them.
Whale Tales
Uvita is famous for its humpback whales, which migrate here from both the Southern Hemisphere (July–October) and the Northern Hemisphere (December–March) to mate and give birth. The area is known for some pretty spectacular whale-watching opportunities, including the possibility of seeing mama whales with their calves.
So naturally, we booked a whale-watching excursion.
Except…the whales apparently had other plans.
This year’s unusually warm waters, attributed to the strong El Niño conditions, have affected the migration, with whales staying farther south around Panama rather than making their usual appearance here.
Oh, shucks. We were just in Panama. 😩
Apparently, the whales didn’t get the memo about our travel itinerary.
The whale-watching trip was still lovely, though. We cruised along the beautiful Costa Rican coastline, where lush rainforest seems to tumble right down to the beaches. And while the whales refused to cooperate, a few bottle-nosed dolphins did come by to check us out. 🐬
We’ll take it.
Whale Tails
Even without the whales, Uvita has a pretty spectacular reminder of why they’re the stars of the show.
At low tide, a combination of sandbar and rocky shoreline emerges offshore in the shape of—you guessed it—a whale’s tail.
The formation is part of Marino Ballena National Park, a protected marine area named for the whales that migrate through these waters.
And during low tide, you can actually walk out onto the “tail.”
It’s a pretty cool experience, especially when the waves roll in from both sides of the narrow sandbar, making you feel like you’re standing right in the middle of the ocean.
No whales required.
A Surprise Sunset During Rainy Season
Since arriving in Uvita, we’ve barely seen the sun.
It’s been overcast, gray and/or raining pretty much the entire time.
We are in the thick of rainy season.
And honestly? We didn’t mind.
Our little B&B, surrounded by lush greenery and tropical birds, was the perfect place to hunker down and listen to the pitter-patter of rain. It felt cozy and very much like the Costa Rican rainforest experience we came for.
But then, on our last evening, something miraculous happened.
The sky cleared.
We weren’t about to waste the opportunity.
We headed up to Restaurante La Uvita Perdida just in time for cocktails and the elusive sunset. And as if the universe was trying to make up for the missing whales, the timing couldn’t have been better: sunset coincided almost perfectly with the day’s 5:30 p.m. low tide.
From our perch above the coast, we could see the famous whale tail emerging in the distance as the sun went down.
Soda Is Pura Vida
One of our favorite discoveries in Costa Rica has been the humble soda.
And no, we’re not talking about a fizzy beverage.
A soda is a small, traditional, usually family-run restaurant serving affordable, homemade Costa Rican food. No fancy setting required—just good food, big portions and plenty of local flavor.
Our go-to has been casado, a traditional lunch plate featuring a colorful combination of white rice, black or red beans, fresh salad, sweet fried plantains, a side dish and your choice of protein.
We’ve had casado almost every day, with grilled chicken, fish, stewed chicken and whatever else happened to be on the menu.
We’re hooked.
It’s fresh, filling, inexpensive and remarkably well-balanced. Basically an entire meal on one plate.
Why don’t we have this in the States?
Wash it down with a refresco—fresh-squeezed natural fruit juice made with whatever tropical fruit is in season—and suddenly we’re not just eating lunch.
We’re living the Pura Vida life.
And that’s a pretty good way to wrap up Uvita.
Onward to one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations: Monteverde!
