Exploring Shkodër: Castles, Cafés, and Cycling
We’re back in northern Albania, this time in the charming city of Shkodër—known as the gateway to the Albanian Alps. We’ll be spending a couple of days here before catching a bus to Theth, a picturesque mountain village tucked away in the Accursed Mountains.
Shkodër turned out to be a wonderful place to slow down before heading into the rugged mountains. We loved strolling along the Italian-inspired pedestrian promenade in the Old Town, lined with beautiful pastel-colored 19th-century buildings. In the evenings, the outdoor cafés came alive as we gathered to watch the late-night World Cup matches under the stars. Just a short walk away, a mosque, an Orthodox church, and a Catholic church all stand within close proximity—a reminder of the city’s rich cultural and religious heritage.
One of the highlights of our visit was Rozafa Castle, an ancient fortress perched atop a strategic hill where the Buna, Drin, and Kir Rivers converge. The climb was rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views of the rivers, surrounding mountains, and expansive Lake Shkodër, which stretches across both Albania and Montenegro.
Shkodër is often nicknamed the “Amsterdam of Albania” thanks to its remarkably flat terrain and cycling-friendly culture. Since our Airbnb had bicycles available, we couldn’t resist taking them out for the easy 5 mile ride to the lakeside village of Shirokë. Lake Shkodër covers up to 530 square kilometers, making it the largest lake in Southern Europe and the Balkan Peninsula. We stopped in Shirokë for a refreshment before leisurely cycling back into the city.
What impressed us most was how enjoyable it was to bike around Shkoder. Dedicated bike lanes, plenty of cyclists, and motorists who seemed genuinely accustomed to sharing the road made us feel safe throughout the ride.
That wraps up our stay in Shkodër. Next stop: the breathtaking Albanian Alps and the mountain village of Theth!
