Theth, tucked away in Albania’s Accursed Mountains, feels like a quieter version of Yosemite with its soaring peaks, waterfalls, and turquoise rivers. Unlike its famous American counterpart, Theth still offers peaceful trails and breathtaking viewpoints without the crowds. We spent three unforgettable days chasing alpenglow, hiking to waterfalls, enjoying fresh trout, watched the animals go about their day, and stargazing under dark skies.

Before venturing into the Albanian Alps, we spent a few days exploring Shkodër—a charming city of castles, cafés, and bicycles. From panoramic views at Rozafa Castle to a scenic ride along the shores of Lake Shkodër, it was the perfect introduction to northern Albania before continuing on to the mountain village of Theth.

Our day in Tirana took us from riding the city’s easy and inexpensive bus system to exploring Bunk’Art 1, a massive Cold War nuclear bunker turned museum where we unexpectedly discovered the remarkable story of 30 American nurses, medics, pilots, and crew rescued by Albanians during World War II. We then escaped the summer heat with a scenic cable car ride to the top of Mount Dajti for breathtaking views and cooler mountain air. It was the perfect day of history, adventure, and delicious Albanian cuisine—all while experiencing Tirana from both below and above ground.

Tirana’s skyline was one of the biggest surprises of our visit. Though we’re not usually drawn to architecture, the city’s bold, futuristic buildings—many inspired by Albanian history, culture, and identity—made us stop, look up, and appreciate how dramatically this capital has transformed itself in just a few decades.

Our self-guided walking tour of Tirana took us through centuries of Albanian history, from Ottoman-era landmarks and Skanderbeg Square to communist relics like the House of Leaves, BUNK’ART, and Enver Hoxha’s former residence. Along the way, we explored how Albania has transformed from one of the world’s most isolated and repressive communist states into a vibrant, modern capital filled with energy, construction, and optimism. Walking the streets and standing inside places where so much history unfolded left me inspired by how far this country has come and hopeful for its future.