Mae Hong Son Loop Day 5: A Buddha, A Canyon, and A Waterfall in Pai
We spent our final days of the Mae Hong Son Loop exploring Pai, where the town’s lingering hippie-trail atmosphere blends with a thriving backpacker adventure scene. Highlights included the giant white Buddha and panoramic views at Wat Phra That Mae Yen, the dramatic sandstone ridges of Pai Canyon, and a refreshing stop at Mok Fa Waterfall on the drive back to Chiang Mai. After more than 600 kilometers of winding mountain roads, caves, temples, viewpoints, and remote villages, we completed one of Thailand’s most memorable road trips.
Mae Hong Son Loop Day 4: Honeymoon Villa and Ancient Caves in Tham Lod
Day 4 of the Mae Hong Son Loop traded winding roads for deeper exploration, as we settled into a stunning honeymoon suite at a luxury homestay in Tham Lod and enjoyed an unforgettable evening of authentic Karen and Shan hill tribe hospitality. The highlight of the day was an adventurous journey through Nam Lod Cave, where lantern-lit passages, bamboo raft rides, ancient coffins, bats, birds, and slippery trails combined into one of northern Thailand’s most memorable experiences.
Mae Hong Son Loop Day 3: Bamboo Bridges, Chinese Tea, and Cabbage Trucks
Day 3 of the Mae Hong Son Loop took us from the bamboo prayer bridge of Su Tong Pae to Ban Rak Thai, a Chinese-founded village whose fascinating history was more appealing to us than its highly curated tourist attractions—though the locally grown tea was exceptional. After a slow mountain drive behind endless cabbage trucks and through dramatic post-rain scenery, we arrived in Tham Lot and were unexpectedly upgraded to a luxurious honeymoon suite at a hill tribe homestay. Surrounded by mountain views, warm hospitality, and the sounds of frogs and cicadas, we quickly decided this might be our favorite stop of the entire trip.
Mae Hong Son Loop Day 2: Friends, WWII History, and 1864 Curves
Day 2 of the Mae Hong Son Loop took us from Mae Sariang to Khun Yuam, where we visited our friend Gai at the local school where he and his wife are teachers, and learned the surprising wartime history behind the Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall, revealing a little-known chapter of cooperation between Japanese soldiers and Thai communities during World War II. After driving part of the 1864 hairpin turns on the loop, we ended the day in the sleepy mountain town of Mae Hong Son, enjoying panoramic views from the hilltop temple and the quiet beauty of the lush green rainy season with hardly another tourist in sight.
Mae Hong Son Loop Day 1: From Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang
Our first day on the Mae Hong Son Loop took us from Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang, where we navigated Thailand’s left-side roads for the first time, enjoyed mountain-view boat noodles, stunning green mountains peeking from behind clouds, abandoned a muddy waterfall mission, and arrived just ahead of a massive rainstorm. The day ended with Karen-style chicken and pumpkin soup, drinks in barber chairs at Ching Ching, and a peaceful stroll along the chocolate-brown Yuam River—a reminder that the best travel days are often the simplest ones.
Reflecting on a Month of Ordinary Days in Chiang Mai
After five months of fast-paced nomadic travel, a month in Chiang Mai gave us the chance to slow down and settle into the rhythms of everyday life rather than chase tourist attractions. What began as guilt over not doing enough gradually became an opportunity to finally explore the meaning of being retired, let go of old expectations, and find value in ordinary days. Through simple routines, decluttering, and quiet reflection, I started asking a deeper question: can I learn to simply be, instead of always feeling the need to do?
Two Celebrations, One City: Pride and Faith in Chiang Mai
In one unforgettable week in Chiang Mai, we experienced two very different celebrations: the vibrant energy of Pride 2026 and the peaceful reflection of Visakha Bucha Day (Buddha Day). One filled the streets with rainbow flags, music, and calls for equality, while the other brought thousands together in candlelit prayer and devotion at the Buddhist temple, Wat Phra Singh. Though expressed in different ways, both celebrations reflected the same values of community, compassion, dignity, and respect.
Bangkok Homecoming: “Same Same, But Different”
From 1996 to today, we’ve experienced Bangkok evolve from a hippie trail hideout where you hoped for "magic" to a high-speed metropolis at my smartphone fingertips. While Khao San Road has traded its laid-back soul for neon clubs and "same same" has turned into vegan cafes and legal weed, the city’s gritty, alluring energy hasn't skipped a beat. Whether we’re hauling a pack in the rain or escaping to a hidden blues bar, Bangkok still feels like home—just with a little more spending power and wisdom.